Saturday 16 March 2013

Strop, football and tango aside, here`s Buenos Aires!

So the title is slightly misleading as there is no tango blog (yet), we´ll get that up when we get a chance. Tango is awesome...if you were wondering.

Anyway, Buenos Aires or BA as we travellers call it (yeah, we label ourselves as travellers). We rocked up after our awesome bus journey, with good vibes about BA. After checking in to the hostel I went for a gentlemanly trip to the bathroom and was met by some ego boosting women.

 

Being in the party mood after some chilled out nights, we wasted no time in grabbing some hostel BBQ and meeting a cool Scottish couple and having a party in the actual hostel. Seemed this lad Scott was also a toy boy as he´s 27 and his mrs Hollie is 29. Reminds me of somebody else, I like your style Scott.


After a few long island iced teas (which were loaded full of alcohol but tasted like they weren´t) we hit the dance floor and I taught this guy a move or two from the rogers school of dance. 1-0 rogers.


After a good old sleep we set off to explore BA. Having heard that pasta and pizza were good here we went into the first cafe type restaurant thingy we found. We weren´t overly hungry so I suggested we ordered one pasta meal to share but Jen was having none of it so we ordered one each. 10 minutes into eating her meal it still looked like Jen hadn´t even touched her meal, maybe should have listened to Jackie!

 

We´ve already blogged about the day of strop and football so won´t go into it again here! all you need to know is I had a moment, and it ended in me getting a footy shirt....the end. So on Sunday we went for a stroll to the San Telmo Sunday market. We stumbled across some people doing tango in the street to some live music, with a bbq on the side and loads of people chilling out eating, drinking and watching.

 

The market itself was massive, both sides of the road for a good mile (might be a slight exaggeration but it was massive!). They sold loads of random things, its an antiques market with lots of war memorabilia, random old telephones, cassette decks etc. Of course people selling footy stuff which is where I ended up getting my shirt.

  

 

And what market is complete without a crazy looking chap in an outfit that makes him look like he´s walking into strong wind. He pulled some awesome faces if anyone put any money in!


Only having booked 3 nights in advance we had to move to a sister hostel to the one we were in which ended up being quite handy as we had booked a week of spanish school which was just round the corner. Having left our bags in the empty luggage room we weren´t so impressed to come back and get them. Our bag was on the back wall, in there somewhere! Who knew other backpackers had luggage too?!


 Checking into the sister hostel we were disgusted to see this dirty image on the wall.


We closed our eyes past the cheating douche and dropped our bags in our room. We realised we´d been in BA for a good 3 days and hadn´t even got a steak yet so off we went to correct this error. Here I am about to munch on it. After all the hype of how amazing these steaks we we tucked in to discover that this one wasn´t actually that amazing. I mean it was good, but nothing worthy of a worldwide reputation. It was just a rump though so we looked forward to our better cut of steak. A few days later though we ordered their tenderloin which was literally amazing. Then a butterfly steak later in the week which was also awesome! shame they love well done steaks in Argentina....the first steak we order medium rare which came out medium well, the second steak we anticipated being overcooked so we ordered rare and it came out medium. Still super tasty though!



Spanish lessons were pretty cool although tough at the same time. We were all complete novices but one guy picked it up a bit easier as he was already fluent in 5 languages! The teacher was speaking as little English as possible so we were immersed in the language which we found pretty difficult. Lots of pointing and sign language! We were asked at one point to describe where our hostel was in Spanish of course. We were living on a street called "hipolito yrigoyen" (who is a former Argentinian president), and this is pronounced something similar to hip-o-lito  Il-ee-o-ce-en. Our Spanish teacher had a thick BA accent and when she was saying this road name I had no idea what she was saying....she kept saying this at me and in my confused state I asked ´why do you keep saying Billy Ocean at me?!´ She had no idea who Billy Ocean was but it made the Spanish class laugh, probably lost on you lot reading this!

The Spanish students were really sound so we went out for drinks and things after lessons. One night we went to a tango lesson and show thing which ended up being a tango lesson and a spanish matador dancing show. It was still awesome though, with cool drumming and music and guys with amazingly quick feet.





At this place we ate as well but were all disgusted with what was served up to us. Being an organic vegetarian place we thought that the food would be half decent as thats all they do. However we were presented with a cardboard pizza, literally broke on the table when tapping it. I ended up taking the cheese and spinach off and just eating that leaving the base behind. Everyone else got pants food too like watery pasta (note the girl´s disgusted face in the background), and rubbish rice.

 

I also have to point out that an American girl on our Spanish course named Meagan Rust (cool name) not only mixes BBQ sauce and mayonaise but amazingly also called it barbinaise like I do. It´s catching on people!

Not satisfied with our lack of tango we decided to go to another tango show later in the week which was so epic it deserves its own blog (when we get round to it). Anyway with a week of spanish lessons out the way and feeling like we hadn`t really learnt anything except to say how old we were, we used our now free time to do some more exploring. There was some tower thingy and a memorial to soldiers killed in the Falkland Wars (which is where we funnily spoke our best Spanish trying to not sound British).


Pretty cool statue, worth a mention


And some drumming band who were marching to the statue above with some random guy who decided to follow them at the back trying to blend in, didnt really work though.


In the centre of the city there is an obilisk, with a maccy D´s on both sides of it, cos 1 just isn´t enough.


It took us 6 days to even notice this massive building which was only down the road from where we were staying. We kept walking the other way to get places though so when we finally walked the other way it wasn´t hard to come across this bad boy.



At one point there was a vintage car parade as well as markets selling authentic food from around the world in their own little stalls. No English stall though, surpirse surprise. To be fair, I don´t think meat pie and chips would cut it here seeing as Empanadas are massive here and are the same but taste about 100 times better.





And I just thought this was worth a mention as they were everywhere and there´s no bloody way a shop can be open 25 hours a day! It wound me up.


We met up with our Argentinian friends we met in Ilha Grande in Brazil and they took us for a drive around the city and acted as our own personal tour guides. We found out more about the city doing this than we had in over a week so that was cool. They took us out for Argentinian ice cream and dinner which Argentines don´t eat until 11pm so we were starving by then! Anyway, they took us by an area called Recolatta which was cool so we went back to explore even further the next day.

A famous architect designed this bad boy, and it opens in the morning and closes at night.


And this is the famous cemetary where Eva Peron is buried. It´s quite bizarre really, it´s like a small village of crypts which have families buried in them. Quite spooky really, especially when you can see the old rotting wood inside some of them with coffins propped up against walls.


So enough of the culture, it was time to party so what better way than to go to a club which is renouned for having transvestite dancers on stage. It was as weird as it sounds and wasnt the most enjoyable night ever. Girls in florescent leotards prancing about wasn´t too bad and neither were the breakdancers on stage.


But it got too much when some guy in a thong was being pushed about whilst struggling to remove the dancing pole from his ass cheeks right behind me. I could almost feel the heat from his arse on the back of my head. Thanks to Jen for capturing this stupid photo which almost looks as if I´m imaging him with a creepy smile on my face, Just needs a thought bubble around it!



We went to a different club which wasn´t so weird and had a pretty good time there, bumped into some lads we met back in parati, only 18 years old the little nippers....... me and Jen showing that travelling can be done by the oldies!


But the night was cut short when we lost our mates somewhere in the club and then Jen fancied a water which was massively overpriced, especially seeing as beer is so cheap here!



Another cool night out was the Bomba de Tiempo which was a bunch of blokes playing the drums. Doesn´t sound that impressive, but it seriously was. Quality music, everyone having a bit of a dance. All the hippies were there smoking cigarettes with a few extras in there, they all looked like they were in a trance!





This photo had to make it into the blog! We were in the hostel partying away (seeing as it`s a party hostel) and Jen was disgusted to see this blokes neck. Give it a few years and she`ll have to put up with this herself (reference to me being hairy....not Jen!). Forgot to say that our hostel was next to a sex cinema which was a bit surreal. We`d wake up in the morning and go to the toilet and all you could hear was women groaning outside. We thought it was just a couple using the privacy of the bathroom instead of those who just don´t care in the dorm rooms, but then the next day the same noises were there but even louder. Only later we were told that we were nextdoor to a sex cinema. You kinda got used to the noises in the end!



Deciding that we were getting through a bit too much money early on into our trip we thought we´d exhange some dollars out here as they seem to love them. We can get 5 pesos to the dollar officially but there is a street here where loads of blokes change it for 7.5 pesos per dollar so we thought we´d give that a go. We thought it would be back alley stuff but there were loads of these people shouting out exchange ("cambio" actually but thats spanish for you) so it was easy to find someone to sort it out. He took us to a building which seemed legit enough, we exchanged money and then went back down only to find out we were locked in. Thought it was a bit dodgy but nothing too bad and were let out after about 5 minutes when the bloke turned up with the key. Upon examining our money the next day our suspìcions of dodgyness were confirmed when we tried to pay for a taxi with the money we had exchanged. Of the 1,200 pesos we got from them, two of the 100 peso notes were fake. cheeky douches but we still would have got less than 1,000 changing it officially so its all good!

Finally we went for a stroll to the neighbourhood of Boca, cos it has the football ground obviously but also some famous colourful houses so we got a bit snap happy there!








All in all BA was an awesome city and I`d recommend it to anyone. Loads to see and do, cool nightlife (especially if you like electro music) and the footy is a must. But onwards and upwards to the place, Puerto Madryn where the sea life is. So after the 6th person commented that I looked like Gerard Pique (which is now 7 as I write this!) we put on our backpacks and set off on our new more relaxed adventure!

One for the lads.......Boca football




Sooooooooooo.....turns out it is pretty easy to get a Boca shirt - loads of people selling them on the street, especially when there´s a massive market on Sunday´s in Buenos Aires. Cost an extra 40 pesos but that´s not exactly breaking the bank and it looks more real than the other dodgy guy who was selling it on the street. And this person had more hair, so definately trustworthy. So I handed my 140 (20 quid) pesos over in exchange for the number 10 Boca Juniors home shirt, currently donned by Juan Roman Riquelme, once sported by the legendary Maradona at the same club. They bloody love that fat Argentine here, statues of him in the stadium museum, lifesize models of him outside shops charging 10 (1.40 quid) pesos to get a photo with, and even some fat bloke in the street who half resembled him asking for 50 (7 quid) pesos for a photo with him whilst he wears his old grubby shirt which only half resembles the Argentina shirt. Nice to see he put the same amount of effort in as his looks.

Anyway they love Riquelme just as much nowadays which is cool cos he is a pretty dam good footballer, shame I can´t say the same for the rest of the team.


Anyway, rant over.....lets start from the start..........

Donning my number 10 Boca Juniors shirt, we reluctanly handed over our 640 pesos (90 quid) to the hostel which got us our ticket, and transport there and back, and supposedly a tour guide to keep you safe in the stadium. We had heard stories of non locals (or gringos) getting beaten up just for wearing the wrong colours, even if its not even a football shirt. After a few beers at our hostel bar we boarded the bus, one guy being told he couldn´t bring beers on board so had to neck the 3 he just bought for the journey. The bus dropped us off just outside the stadium to a "bar" that the guide promised us before hand. This "bar" turned out to be just someone´s basement or garage which was highly dodgy where we could buy beer or beer by the tin for 20 pesos (about 3 quid). After purchasing my second overpriced tin we were promptly told we had to leave and we couldn´t drink on the street so we endulged in some more necking!

After leaving the bar we were told that the way we were all entering the stadium, quote...."wasn´t exactly offical".....end quote. We were all handed a members card with photo ID on. My name was now "Marcos Martin Guardia" and I had endured some plastic surgery and assumed I had become fluent in Spanish.



(not that you can really make it out but here is our mate Ash we went with, who got a similar membership card with a white Argentian chap on it. He dropped the funniest line I´d heard since I´d got here....."Jesus Christ, didn´t realise I´d got that good a tan since leaving the UK!")


Anyway, back to the story.......the ground was highly policed with guards doing pat downs and metal scanners etc. We all nervously queued up as our "tour guide" was no where to be seen and we had no idea if we were going to make it through the security checks seeing as no one looked like their pictures. With all of us silent as can be so as not to alert them to us being English (and some of the lads Aussie) we all got through fine, seems all they were bothered about were lighters which they confiscated as we were later told they were always used as missiles so banned from the ground).

So anyway, part one a success we got in to find a pretty empty stadium, with some conrete steps to sit on which they called "seats". The stadium is pretty epic, kind of a half oval all around the pitch exept for one side which kinda looks like a block of council flats.


 As the stadium started to fill up a bit, they ran through the team, I obviously had to get a photo of Riquelme as he popped up on thr big screen, the crowd going wild. 


And as any true Brit would do, I donned my home team shirt (underneath my Boca shirt) and got a photo as quick as I could, with the memory of stories of wrong colours in the back of my mind. But it had to be done, when else is a chap wearing a leicester shirt going to be in the Boca ground?! The team definately ain´t gonna make it there! About 2 seconds after this photo was taken the Aussie lads I went with hit me where you don´t wanna be hit, cheers guys! Holding my now soar testes, I threw my Boca shirt back on.






With the stadium now completely full and the players coming out of the tunnel, the place went off. I´ve been to a few football games in my time, including the mighty Leicester beating Tranmere at Wembley back in 2000, where I thought the atmosphere could never be topped......but to my dismay it was. I´ve never heard anything like it and I doubt any football fans back home will have either. To the lads who went to Munich, imagine that, times it by about 20 (literally) and then imagine that for every second of every minute of the entire match! Flares going off the second the players hit the pitch, fans taking their shirts off and swinging them around into my face with every turn, it really was incredible. By the time kick off started you were as crammed into the stadium as you might be on a London Train at rush hour. No room to sit, looked like we were standing for the entire game then!


So, with Boca supposedly being a great team, and Union Sante Fe being the supposed crap opposition who are facing relegation, we thought we were in for a home team goals fest. Within minutes Union scored but it was ruled offside. Minutes later, as home fans were shouting their songs, Union scored an awesome goal, with a Messi-esc chip over the out rushing keeper. You´d think this would silence the home fans......not even for a second, it just made them get even loader (which I didn´t think was possible) and support their team!



.......60 minutes gone and Boca were 3-0 down at home, still with the crowd going mental. With us gringos thinking Boca were now pants and me even commenting to Ash that Leicester would most likely beat them or at least give them a good game (which I have since retracted since finding out City lost 0-1 at home to Sheffield Wednesday!), Boca managed to score a late goal to make it 3-1. Might have helped if players passed to each other, seemed like the defenders passed to midfielders who dribbled until they lost it. Riquelme was the only one who looked half decent. With the Aussie guys moaning that football was pants as players spent most the time on the floor (he had a point, one dude was on rolling around for literally 5 mins and of course got up after that with no medical assistance), the ref blew the whistle. We were locked up in our part of the ground for an hour after full time with the mental fans so the others could get out safely, still squished together....it really helped that the guys were walking through the crowd with drinks smashing you in the face with their box and tredding on your feet as they struggled past.

After finally getting out of the stadium, our tour guide was of course no where to be seen so we walked around in the scary neighbourhood of Boca at 11pm and managed to stumble across our bus!

In summary 
  • Boca are pants
  • Leicester would batter Boca
  • Boca fans are mental
  • The stadium is crammed full, and you will get trodden on, hit in the face with boxes and shirts
  • Players spend half their time on the floor
  • Players are super greedy
  • Riquelme is bad ass
  • Argentinians can`t dribble unless your name is Maradona, Ardiles, Battistuta Messi, Aguero, Teves or Di Maria
  • Tour guides don`t keep you safe
  • Ash can pass as a white man
  • I just noticed there´s actually no evidence of me in my Boca shirt! I have it, honest!

Anyway, visiting the stadium later on in the light you can see the past players names and footprints like in Hollywood. I opted to check out Riquelmes footprint over Maradona´s seeing as he´s no cheat. Has bigger feet than me too.


Sorry for the essay of a blog, but there was too much to say.....innit. Check my bad self outside the Bombonera. Owwwwwwwww


Friday 15 March 2013

I witness Jack in a mega strop for the first time....



It was Saturday, nothing out of the ordinary to report. We had had a fun night partying at the hostel the night before and decided today that we would go for a stroll. We first ventured down the main shopping street where Jack dragged me into everyone sports shop we came across looking for a Boca football shirt. He had bought a ticket to see them play on Sunday and got it into his head that he needed to wear the football shirt to the match. Unfortunately for Jack the shirt was selling for around 80 quid so his dream was soon in tatters.

We walked to one of the main squares to see the pink house (below) which is the presidential house and the one where Evita (and Madonna) stood out on the balcony (it is also lit up in pink at night).



There was also this cathedral nearby...... and this is where I saw Jackie´s face light up.....there was some dodgy argentinian selling football shirts off the rug he had laid on the pavement. After close inspection Jack decided that they looked like pretty decent ´real´ shirts but he wasn´t sure of which name/number to purchase, for the knock down price of 14 quid. Jack felt further research was needed so back to the hostel it was to check the internet for Boca football players and to get some cash.........



Jack literally skipped the 10 min journey back to the hostel, looking the happiest I´d ever seen him (except for the day he met me of course*). He was picturing himself at the stadium in his Boca shirt looking like a local. But we had to hurry just in case the little street man wasnt there when we got back. After Jack had decided to get number 10 (Roman) and I had a quick pit stop to the loo we were back on our way out, we had probably been a max of 25 min. As we approached the catherdral Jacks worst fear was realised - the little man was all packed up and crossing the road with his trolly. We stalked the little man across the square and for another street or so but we felt the time had passed to tap him on the shoulder and instead we just looked like wierd tourists following a man with some boxes.

*Jack had no part in writing this

This was when Jackie´s strop kicked in. I have actually never seen Jack in such a mood and nothing I could do or say was helping - I don´t think mentioning it was only a football shirt went down too well.

To try cheer him up we went on a stroll by the river (you can tell by the photo that this tactic really worked)



Even some weird guys getting filmed for a music video, which Jack would normally find hilarious, didnt raise a smile.

We then stumbled across a boat which was a museum which was pretty cool although we couldnt read anything as it was all in Spanish


Was that a smile I could see on Jack´s face.........no




But I was having fun.....



Finally I thought Jack was starting to cheer up - this big bit of rope had seemed to do the trick!



(It was in fact actually Sunday by the time Jack got over his strop.....maybe it was just that time of the month)