South America 2013: The stupiest border crossing system in the world

Having successfully crossed borders between Brazil and Argentina, Argentina and Chile, and Chile and Peru, we were hopeful that the crossing from Peru to Bolivia would go smoothly. Why was this on our minds you might ask? Well, it's because of the crossing from Chile to Peru when we were only given a 30 day visa by the border control officer when we were entitled up to 183 days. We had tried to extend our visa by first visiting the embassy in Lima but there was a ridiculous queue. Jen also rang the embassy but there was a Spanish automated message she didn't understand so we got the lady at the hostel to ring up for us and we were told that we would have to pay 1 US dollar per day that we stayed over our 30 days. We thought it a bit annoying seeing as we were entitled to 183 days but we just decided to accept it and were told we could pay our fine at the border when crossing. We couldn't leave before those 30 days were up as we had already booked in the Inca trail so we had to stay for at least 35 days. But with other places on our list it was 41 days before we came to cross the border.

When the day came we had booked a bus from Puno to Copacabana (which is on the other side of Lake Titikaka but on the Bolivian side) which would take us to the crossing and wait whilst the passport checks took place and then drive us onto Copacabana. Sadly, our journey did not work out that easily.

Having smoothly got to the border, we first went to a little hut where we got one stamp on our visa documents. Thinking this was a doddle and we might not even have to pay, we went onto the second hut where we got our passport stamped. It was here that the problems started. They quickly picked up that we had outstayed our welcome and began to issue us a ticket thingy with a fee to pay. Expecting a fee of 11 dollars we were dissapointed to see 21 dollars printed down. I asked them what the extra 10 dollars was for and at that point they conveniently could no longer understand my Spanish even though they had up until that point. We had read online that they might try and add on an admin fee but this wasn't actually part of the process and they do it to try and screw you out of some money. So on the internets advice we held our ground and refused to pay the extra 10. After a good 15 minutes of arguing we finally got our way and got it down to 11 dollars, so we were happy to hand over that much. We were then told that they couldn't take payment here (even though we were told they could by the embassy on the phone) but we would have to go to the bank. Looking outside we saw a sign for a bank so thought that wasn't too bad so went in there to try and pay. Sadly this was only a currency exchange bank so we couldn't pay there. After I was struggling to get the info I needed with my Spanish and Jen getting mightily miffed, we asked the bus driver guy who spoke English and he told us we would need to go back to a town we had just passed and pay at the bank there. Pretty annoyed, we were left with no option but to get a taxi back there. We asked the bus driver if they would wait which they wouldn't so we had to get our backpacks off the bus and jump in this taxi back to a local town.

Fortunately this town was only 5 minutes away so we jumped off and paid our debt at the bank. Unfortunately it was absolutely hammering it down and we were both wearing little plimmies. We were also told at the border we would need 3 photocopies of the fee debt reciept and our passports so we asked at the bank if they could do it. No they said, but pointed us towards a shop over the road which could. So off we trundled and asked in there when we were told that they had a powercut. Not thinking too much of it we went round the corner to another place that did photocopying only to be told that they didn't have power either. With our tails between our legs we went outside and noticed none of the lights were on in the square....it was a town wide powercut.

Back off we trundled in the taxi to the border (with the taxi driver waiting for us which was about the only positive thing that happened in this ordeal!) and explained there was a powercut in the local town so we couldn't get a photocopy and asked if we could get one here. The powercut had also affected the border crossing and they were out of power too. The rain had come down that much that we had to change our socks and shoes. Wondering if we were going to spend the night at the border until power was restored we were pretty happy to be marched over into Bolivia by the border control officer and use their photocopier yards into Bolivia. Weird how they had power literally 20 yards from the Peruvian offices but I assume they were on different power grids. Finally getting all of our photocopies and handing over the debt receipt we were told we were free to go into Bolivia. Now however with no bus waiting for us, we had to get a taxi to our hotel, which again was only 10 minutes drive to Copacabana so it wasn't too painful.

But all because of the douche bag at the Chilean/Peruvian border giving us only 30 days, we had lost a few hours and 30 or so dollars. And just to top it all off the Bolivian border control officer only gave us 30 days when we were entitled to 90. After a discussion with him and asking nicely for 90 days he would only give us 30, even though he had a piece of paper saying what each country was entitled to. We were told that we could get it extended for free in La Paz though but we weren't sure whether to trust that. But we put all this behind us and tried to enjoy our time in Copacabana!

Upon being dropped off right outside our hotel (better than walking from the bus drop off point so I suppose something good came of it!) we got our own private room again seeing as Bolivia was so cheap and used our private radiator to dry our socks and got some rest. The next day the rain had passed so we went out to have a look around with this view from near our hostel.

Getting down to the lake we had a look around and they had the classic swan boat thingies.

Leaving the lake we saw an awesome church which had a massive complex surrounding it.

With an awful map from the hostel we set out to find two Inca ruins, one being some Inca seats which were carved out of rock which were pretty boring to be honest with you but at least it was free to have a look. At least they had a cool name in "Inti Kalla".

The other was a bit more interesting and also had a cool name, "La Horca del Inca". This means Incan gallows as the rock formation was wrongly thought (by the Spanish) to be some sort of torture device, where as it was actually an astronimcal observatory. With only one slab remaining today, originally there were seven flat slabs which allowed the Incas to measure and observe the stars and constellations.

It was quite a climb to get up here to see the rock formation but it was worth it. If the rok doesn't get you going then the view back down of the city might do.

That night we decided to eat at the restuarant above out hotel as trip advisor said it was good. But it turned out to be pretty mediocre and we weren't that hungry anyway so left half of it and went to bed. The following day we visited the Isla del Sol, or the Island of the Sun, which is the place where the Incas are said to have originated from.

With some impressive views once again we were dropped off at one end of the island and would be picked up from the other after a 2 hour walk.

Being on a non guided tour we thought we would be on our own, but were hoarded into a group to second we got off the boat by a guide. Thinking it was part of the deal we stuck about for a while but this old timer was taking ages gathering up more people, so along with some others we got bored of him and walked off. Again thinking we'd be on our own we kind of just joined onto another tour group who were just setting off.

However this guide only spoke Spanish but there was an American traveller who was translating for the rest of the group. After some information on the way up we got to the top were the good old Incas had another sacred rock, this time it was supposedly of a Puma. Yeah right?! If anyone can see the puma in that rock then let me know! Anyway, no one knows the meaning of titicaca, where the lake gets is best name, but the best guess if actually from this rock with "titi" meaning "puma" and "caca" meaning "rock". So it all gets its name from a rock which is shaped like a Puma, which is actually shaped nothing like a puma. Once again those Inca minds are running a bit wild.

There were some temple ruins which was something we had grown to expect on these trips! It was in these ruins that the guide, who couldn't even speak English wanted a tip. Cheeky boy, he made it out that it was part of the tour, o well, have 50p. You're welcome.